CHILLNOWA
When talking about Hokkaido, we must not forget CHILLNOWA, a bicycle shop located in Hakodate. When they visit Nagoya, we grab a meal together. They carry SIMWORKS products, WILDE BICYCLE CO, and BEDROCK SANDALS, and are also one of the essential bicycle shops in Hokkaido that birthed the concept of “GRAVEL HUNT” (please don't ask me to explain what that actually is—haha).
Beyond visiting the shop, they also took me to their favorite local spots, including a recommended ramen shop and a mochi shop. I was particularly moved by the mochi shop, but I'll save that story for later—what I really want to share now is the story of our ride. You might already be feeling full from the Niseko and Eniwa updates, but I would appreciate it if you could bear with me a little longer.
A Ride Overlooking the Sea and Mountains
CHILLNOWA is run by Taneda-san and Yokota-san, both of whom took me out on this ride. Unfortunately, due to bad timing, Yokota-san was feeling unwell, so it ended up being a ride with just Taneda-san and me.
After a 30-minute drive from downtown Hakodate, our ride took place in Shiokubi, located at the southernmost tip of Hakodate. We followed the coastline to our destination, with the sea on our right and a series of mountains on our left—though not very high, the scenery alone was enough to raise my expectations.
The starting point was also a place where you could see both the sea and the mountains close by, and from there, the climb towards the summit began immediately. We alternated between rough, barely single-lane paved roads and gravel paths. Passing through woods with short trees, I was fascinated by the vegetation, which was unlike anything I had experienced before. And when we emerged from those woods, the view was so breathtaking that I couldn't help but exclaim out loud.
Suddenly, the view opened up to reveal a sprawling meadow. Looking back at the road we had ridden, we could still see downtown Hakodate—a magnificent vista. That alone would have been enough, but climbing further toward the summit revealed an even better view.
We were also surprised by the wild horses near the summit. I had never seen wild horses before, so it was a great experience, though I had a hard time dodging the droppings scattered all over the place.
By the way, Shiokubi is the closest point between Hokkaido and Honshu, located just about 17.5km away from Oma, the northernmost tip of Honshu. The mountains visible beyond the wild horses are not part of Hokkaido, but rather Aomori.
After enjoying the view at the summit for a while, we passed through the meadow and headed toward a prime descent. The double-track road was very mellow and easy to ride, and it was long enough to be comfortable and exhilarating.
After fully enjoying the descent, we rode along the coastline back to the start. This area seems to be home to seaweed beds, and when I pointed my camera at a boat returning from fishing, one of the fishermen gave me a peace sign.
This ride is something every cyclist should experience at least once. It wasn't too hard, wasn't too easy—it was absolutely the best!!!
By the way, Taneda-san was riding a SURLY Karate Monkey with flat pedals, wearing his trusty BEDROCK SANDALS Cairn 3D Pro II, which he has loved for several years. He also had OUTER SHELL Stem Caddies mounted on both sides of his handlebars, carrying a drink in one and bear spray in the other. He also had a bear bell attached, showing he was fully prepared for any risks.
I didn't encounter any bears during my stay in Hokkaido this time, but many people I met had, and I truly felt that everyone shares that sense of caution. As I continue to explore the nature-rich land of Hokkaido over the years, I felt that along with the desire to enjoy it to the fullest, I need to pay attention to these realities as well.
As for me, I stuck with my usual setup: a WILDE BICYCLE Rambler and BEDROCK SANDALS. However, what I came to like even more during this ride was the NITTO RM013HT Hanafuda Dirt Drop handlebar that I installed just before the trip.
I already liked the width and flare angle, which felt just right for dirt riding, but during the long descent on this ride, I truly experienced its comfort. The 25.4mm clamp diameter offers a good amount of flex, which effectively absorbed the constant vibrations. This combination with a chromoly gravel frame and fork, paired with the SIMWORKS Tomboy stem, has definitely become my favorite setup!
Shichu-ya
Oh, and let me touch on the mochi shop I mentioned at the beginning. I decided to visit because the owner is a cyclist and a customer of CHILLNOWA, and both the shop and the mochi were exceptional.
The shop isn't flashy or heavily decorated, but the store, fixtures, equipment, and tools are kept tidy, neat, and well-maintained—as someone who works in a shop, I couldn't help but feel a sense of respect. And there’s no doubt that the mochi and various wagashi (Japanese sweets) made there are incredibly delicious. If you ever have the chance to visit Hakodate, I highly recommend stopping by.
So, did you enjoy this three-part "Hokkaido Travelogue"? I intend for this to be the end for now, but as for whether there will be a sequel...
