What should I do with my precious summer vacation? Since I’m taking time off, I want to go somewhere far away.
That’s it—a plane! I’ll go on a cycling trip with my bike packed on an FDA flight!
And so, once again, I set off on a journey from Komaki Airport using FDA.
I’ve previously been to Kochi via FDA, but I wanted to visit somewhere else, so out of the many options, I chose "Izumo Airport."
There are plenty of attractive places like Hokkaido, Tohoku, or Kyushu, but I decided on "Shimane" because I wanted to go somewhere I might not easily visit in my lifetime.
The only thing that immediately came to mind when I heard "Shimane" was Izumo Taisha, which I had visited as a child. Since I was going, I wanted to experience a deep, rural part of Shimane that I had never encountered before.
(Totally unrelated, but my maternal grandmother is from Shimane.)
As I opened Google Maps and looked at it...
Wait...!? There’s some tiny island here!
What are the Oki Islands?
The Oki Islands. (I didn’t even know how to read that at first.)
They are a small cluster of islands in Shimane known to those in the know.
There are four main islands in the Oki Islands.
Three of them (Nishinoshima, Nakanoshima, and Chiburijima) were formed by major volcanic activity, featuring unique landscapes like calderas and sheer cliffs.
Recognized for their volcanic terrain and natural environment, the Oki Islands are registered as a UNESCO Global Geopark. The islands also have a deeply rooted culture of cattle ranching, and in some areas, there are actually more tanuki (raccoon dogs) than people.
They are also famous as a place of exile; two emperors in the past (Emperor Go-Toba and Emperor Go-Daigo) were exiled there. Incidentally, exile in those days was considered a punishment equivalent to death...
I just had to go to these islands full of history, culture, and nature!
So, I set off on a "self-imposed exile trip" using a plane and ferry to visit Chiburijima, with its stunning caldera landscape, and Nakanoshima, the island where Emperor Go-Daigo was exiled ✈️⛴️
My companion for this 3-day, 2-night grand adventure...🚲
Since transport is limited to planes and ferries, it’s crucial to move quickly, pack fast, and get loaded up.
Therefore, I brought my SURLY Preamble this time so I could move quickly. I cherish my other bike, the WILDE Supertramp, just as much, but it stayed home this time.
Rethinking the Drivetrain
Since I'm going into an environment different from my daily life, checking on my bike's condition is essential.
I had been using the stock rear derailleur that came with the bike, but its spring was weak, and I found it stressful that the chain would drop in the front with even slight bumps during daily riding.
However, for this trip, I decided to switch to a SHIMANO CUES rear derailleur and STI levers, along with a 9-speed cassette (11-46T)!
Even though it’s in a relatively affordable price range among SHIMANO components, it performs just as well as top-tier drivetrains and supports a wide variety of bike styles, including MTBs, road bikes, gravel bikes, and cargo bikes.
Furthermore, thanks to LINKGLIDE technology, shifting is smooth and highly durable, making it reliable for everything from daily commutes to long-distance weekend rides.
Since switching, the "clunk!" impact during gear changes has decreased.
It may sound obvious, but the shifting is now super smooth, incomparable to before, and the chain hasn’t dropped once, even after hitting heavy bumps. While this is just expected performance for a bike, I feel happy every time I ride now that I’ve switched to CUES.
OUTER SHELL bags: A travel essential
I brought the Drawcord Handlebar Bag and the Hip Slinger.
I put things like extra clothes—items I don't need to take in and out while moving—in the large bag on the back. The Drawcord Handlebar Bag is incredibly convenient for things that are too heavy for a hip bag but that I want to be able to grab quickly, like my bike bag or camera!
Also, in my Hip Slinger, I keep things like my tickets, wallet, power bank, and lights—items that can't be checked in on a plane and that I want to carry with me for peace of mind whenever I step away from the bike.
I’m also happy that it keeps sweat from soaking through, so my tickets don't get all soggy...
It has water-resistant zippers on the front and back, making it easy to access the contents. It uses a roll-top design, which is reassuring because I can pack more if my load happens to increase.
I’ve used various bicycle bags, but every OUTER SHELL bag is meticulously designed for usability, and I find myself impressed by the thought put into them every time I use them.
Setting off for exile!✈️
I arrived at Izumo Airport and cycled about 48km to Sakaiminato to catch the ferry. There was little traffic and no major hills, so I was able to enjoy a comfortable ride while keeping my spirits high.
I wanted to minimize my luggage, so for the first and last days, I wore a RAL Merino Coolmax L/S Tee, which is 50% polyester on the outside and 50% merino wool on the inside. The reason I chose a merino blend for this trip was that I’d be taking planes and ferries on the first and last days, and I didn't want to be sweaty and smelly in public. As you know, merino wool has the effect of neutralizing unpleasant odors!
They have a short-sleeve version, but for rides where you’re constantly exposed to direct sunlight, long sleeves are often better.
Intense UV rays drain our physical strength without us realizing it. This causes inflammation on the skin, and because energy is used to repair it, the body loses water and becomes prone to dehydration.
Therefore, wearing long sleeves actually helps conserve energy.
I rode over 30km on all three days, and these long sleeves were a huge help.
Since it has "Coolmax" in the name, I honestly didn't think there would be that much difference. But when I actually used it, I was really surprised by how much cooler it was than I imagined.
The secret lies in the merino material on the inside. Because merino has high hygroscopicity, it absorbs moisture from the skin and releases it into the outside air, making it feel cool.
To be honest, I didn't have a great impression of merino wool because it can be itchy and has a unique smell when it absorbs moisture.
However, unlike 100% merino, I didn't notice any peculiar odor, and the wet fabric didn't feel sticky against my skin at all.
I even dared to choose Grey, a color where sweat stains would normally be very visible!
I had been pedaling for three hours from the airport to the port and was drenched in sweat, but there weren't any noticeable sweat stains. This was a low-key pleasant surprise.
Staying on Nakanoshima.
On the 2nd day, heading to Chiburijima for the Aka-kabe (Red Wall), tanuki, and cows🏝️
I arrived safely at Sakaiminato and headed toward my hotel, Entô.
There was a direct ferry to Nakanoshima, but it was canceled due to bad weather the day before, so I went via Beppu Port.
The hotel I booked provided a quite luxurious space on a remote island, and it was so healing. It’s a hotel with deep ties to the local community—they offer room service with fish caught by the island’s spearfishermen, and they also host tours, so check it out if you’re interested.
You can rent fishing gear for a fee. The fish you catch are catch-and-release. (I borrowed some during my free time before dinner on the second day. Since it was my first time, my strategy was to wait right at the water's edge with the desire to catch absolutely something.)
On the second day, I went to Chiburijima to see the Red Wall, the tanuki, and the grazing cows. Once again, I took my bike on the ferry.
Some ferries require you to put your bike in a bike bag, but this time I used ships where I could roll the bike on as-is for an additional fee. It's incredibly comfortable just saving the trouble of packing.
As expected of a national treasure, it was stunningly powerful...
The whitish-gray rock wall visible to the right of where I'm standing is apparently a remnant of a "volcanic conduit" through which magma passed, and the reddish-brown rocks covering it are layers of oxidized lava containing iron. Over many years, it has been eroded by the waves and wind of the Sea of Japan to take its current form.
There were even places where spring water was dripping from the rock walls, and it was so mysterious that I could have watched it forever. Just seeing this made the long journey worth it.
But the healing of the Red Wall was short-lived, and the next part was tough...
After finishing at the Red Wall, I was heading to the Aka-hage Mountain observatory.
The climb continues for about 3km. Normally, I would do my best to pedal through it, but there was almost no shade, so I ended up walking my bike for the second half.
Something that comes in handy at times like these is BIVO. A sip of cold water brings you back to life!
It was a huge success last summer, so I bought another one this year.
And I also made sure to buy the cap for BIVO. Just having this keeps the nozzle protected from sand and dust, ensuring it stays clean at all times.
There are cows everywhere on this island, and they’re often right in the middle of the road, so there were occasional cow traffic jams🐮
The cows look huge up close, and some of them have impressive horns, so it was a bit scary when I got off the bike to pass them...
(Basically, they move away on their own, but some are just very steady and don't budge even when you get close, which makes me nervous... sweating here...)
In the midst of all that, a tanuki finally appeared! It was cuter than the ones you see around here✨ lol
It was a fleeting moment of being healed by the tanuki.
And finally, I reached Mt. Akahage. (The photo on the right looks like the icon for the macOS Catalina update.)
It was a tough climb after a long time... but the view was, as expected, amazing. So glad I put in the effort to climb it~~
After that, I immediately descended and desperately searched for a vending machine to quench my parched throat.
I love rides that include a mix of some challenging roads, followed by the luxury of a meal in a lovely setting and a relaxing hot spring.
This trip was exactly that kind of ideal journey.
Also, while bicycles are an indispensable vehicle in daily life, they are simultaneously a form of play that enriches the heart.
I have heaps more I want to write, but it would end up being way too long, so I'll wrap it up here.
I hope you all make use of FDA bike transport to discover your own new ways to enjoy traveling with a bicycle.
Thank you so much for reading until the end. See you later!
As an aside, Emperor Go-Daigo escaped the island the year after he was exiled, and returned to the mainland.
It still takes a fair amount of time even by ferry or plane today...
To attempt a life-or-death escape in an era without such convenient transportation—experiencing this place firsthand really made me realize how tenacious he was, and how much drive he had to realize his personal rule.
It's just incredible.....
