A single river, one mountain, one road, one wall. Even the slightest separation can make things feel distant all of a sudden, and you often need a reason to overcome it. This is even more true when you are separated by the Pacific Ocean.
For my 2017 summer vacation, I crossed the sea to Niijima in the Izu Islands, bringing along my bicycle, surfboard, and camping gear.
The reason people are often reluctant to take a boat to a surf paradise isn't actually the sea, but the psychological distance. It takes two and a half hours by high-speed ferry from Tokyo, or three hours by large ship from the Izu Peninsula, where I usually hang out. It’s about the same distance and travel time as going to Yamanashi or Nagano, but crossing the sea to reach an island is still a bit of an adventure.
Ferry Fares
Tokyo-Niijima: Large Ship 5,740 yen / Jet Ferry 8,810 yen
Shimoda-Niijima: Large Ship 3,920 yen
Bicycle: +500 yen if in a bike bag / +1,200 yen as is
The ferry fares are cheap, and if you camp, accommodation is free. Plus, the 24-hour hot spring is also free.
Yes, even though Niijima has a reputation for being far, I know that in reality, it’s cheap, nearby, and easy. All you need is the momentum to cross the sea.
Originally, I planned on having a relaxing vacation somewhere close, but those plans were upended by Riebo’s enthusiasm, saying, "I want to go to Niijima to surf!" It had been two years since our last chaotic trip to the "Shikoku Continent" for a BIKE & SURF TRIP. This time, we were joined by Chaya and his wife Minami, who live in Shimoda.
It takes three hours from Shimoda by large ship. People carrying surfboards boarded one after another.
While I’ve heard boat trips can be quite rough on stormy days, today was safe and smooth. Although the direct distance from Shimoda to Niijima is only 36km, it takes a bit of time because the ship makes stops at two other islands along the way.
Arrived in Niijima. We used a Burley trailer to haul our surfboards and camping gear. The trailer required a separate transport fee of 540 yen, in addition to the bike. In the distance, you can see the legendary Oshima Island.
After riding about 3km, we checked into Habushiura Campground. I heard that due to a surfing competition held the day before, there were about 200 people staying there, but on this day, there were only about 15 groups. It was very comfortable, with a kitchen area, clean restrooms, and showers. There were even a few long-term surfers staying there. We set up our tents and headed straight for the beach right in front of us!
Habushiura Beach is the highlight of Niijima. As you can see, the beauty of the seven-kilometer-long white sand beach, stretching from north to south, is incredible. But... there were absolutely no waves.
When we asked a lifeguard, they told us that the best spot today was Awaiura in the north of the island, and that there were a few people at the "Secret" spot too. Since we needed a car to reach the northern part, we first set our sights on the "famous" Secret spot, cycling through a green tunnel...
The Secret surf spot is right in front of the Shiromama Cliffs, a sacred site for the locals. These are steep, precipitous cliffs formed by layers of white volcanic ash exposed and eroded by wind and rain. Thanks to this fine-grained white sand, the sea glows with a vibrant blue color. Unfortunately, the waves had died down at Secret too, so we decided to aim for high tide the next day.
We headed back toward the harbor and went snorkeling at Mamashita Coast. Diving into the rocky area, we saw plenty of tropical fish and squid.
After getting out of the sea, we went to the Yunohama Open-Air Hot Spring next door. In my mind, it felt exactly like the Twelve Temples of Saint Seiya’s Gold Saint arc. Surprisingly, it’s free and open 24 hours a day. Since it’s on the west side of the island, you can soak in the hot spring while watching the sunset. (It gets crowded at that time of day.)
Then, for dinner, we went to the island izakaya, Nihonbashi. The thing that surprised me most about coming to Niijima was the high level of the restaurants.
There were several excellent eateries that would be thriving even in the city, and everything we ate here was delicious. Not just the seafood like flying fish and red squid, but even the local specialty ashitaba tempura and the standard fried chicken—everything was truly great. However, reservations are a must for all the restaurants if you want to eat around 19:00, and they’re so busy that you can only get in without a reservation after 21:00 if you're lucky. The sushi restaurant we wanted to try was fully booked, and we never managed to get in.
After seeing off the Chaya couple who had to head back early, I went to Secret and got in the water. The waves weren't that great, but just waiting for a wave while surrounded by the breathtaking scenery of the Shiromama Cliffs and beautiful water was fun enough. I wonder if Niijima is considered a surfing mecca because it gets perfect waves when the atmospheric pressure patterns are just right...
Day 3. I went to check the waves first thing in the morning, but expectations were low, so today was a cycling day. I did a hill climb up to Mukaiyama, which overlooks the Secret cliffs from directly above. I played around at the quarry for Koga stone, a local specialty of Niijima. Koga stone is lightweight and easy to work with, used for construction and various other purposes, and apparently, the Moai statues in Shibuya were also made from Niijima's Koga stone.
On the final day, I just woke up slowly and caught the boat. It was another clear, sunny day with no waves.
Before the Next Boom Comes
Once you make the leap and cross the sea, you find that it really is a paradise. Everything on the island is a short bike ride away, so everyone rents city bikes to get around. That’s perfectly fine, but there are also some great mountain routes, so having a road bike makes it even more fun. Camping is great, and apparently, there are some nice guest houses too. It’s all good—the list of pros is endless.
Apparently, there was an "outer island boom" in the 1970s, when high school and college students would crowd onto large ships in droves for their summer vacations. It seems there were ten times as many lodgings back then, and it was as crowded as Harajuku. The main street of Niijima still retains a glimpse of that era in some parts.
They say the boom ended with the collapse of the bubble economy and the increased ease of international travel, but the charm of the island surely hasn't changed at all. While people’s interest has waned, access has improved, and the environment is now one where you can share various facilities and magnificent nature with fewer people. Yes, now is the absolute best chance to enjoy Niijima.
For tourist information, check this out (and handle the rest once you're there):
http://niijima-info.jp/
The free paper I saw on the island, "Niijimag," was also interesting.
http://niijimag.com/
Today’s Rider
Chaya BIKE SPECS
| Frame | Hunter Cycles | CycloCross |
| Front bag | Porcelain Rocket | MCA |
| Bottle | SimWorks Artcollective | Primitive Adventure |
| Back Pack | Welldone |
Minami BIKE SPECS
| Frame | Surly | Cross Check |
| Paint | Kyutai Paint | Wet Paint |
| Seat Bag | Porcelain Rocket | Vera |
Today’s Rider
Riebo BIKE SPECS
| Frame | Hunter Cycles | Woodrat |
| Seat Bag | Strawfoot | Simple Seat Bag |
| Handle Bag | Randi Jo Fabrications | Pocket Tender Bag |
| Cage | King Cage | Manything Cage |
| Bottle | SimWorks Artcollective | Primitive Adventure |
TEXT by Monjya ／ PHOTO by Monjya,Riebo,Minami