Product Reviews

【HOUDINI / M's Desoli Thermal Crew and Yamatomichi Alpha Vest】What I wear every day and what I wear for special occasions

I’m the type of person who can’t help but crave something sweet after every meal—breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Sometimes I can’t stop once I start, so I make sure to have snacks on hand that I can finish in just two or three bites. I do worry about the extra padding on my midsection, but I just can’t help myself... I can’t give it up.

It’s hard to resist such sweet temptations, and those temptations are everywhere, hiding in every corner.

They aren’t food, but lately—or perhaps I should say, for the winter—I’ve found an item I simply cannot give up. My number one item that, once you experience it, you’ll never want to be without, is the Desoli Thermal Crew from HOUDINI.

I know I’m wearing it way too much every single day, and I try to restrain myself, but I give in to the sweet temptation of it saying, "How about today? You want to wear me, don't you?" and end up slipping it on.

It’s a base layer made of what you might call 100% merino wool thermal fabric, and it is truly, unquestionably warm. Furthermore, thanks to the properties of 100% merino, it doesn’t retain odors easily and doesn't get sticky with sweat. I pretty much wear it constantly—waking, sleeping, and working—taking it off only to bathe. My routine is to wear it until I finally wash it after a holiday ride or run, meaning it’s only off my body for a day or two a week; I wash it about once a week. I bought it last season and wore it on a similar routine, and I’m continuing to wear it just the same this season.

Honestly, it’s quite expensive for a base layer, but I can confidently say that if you’re going to use it this frequently, it’s definitely not expensive. With the New Year bringing more severe cold, I was thinking about needing something warm, and the choice to buy another one of these is my top candidate. Just the other day, someone who was thinking the same thing as me came in and bought it in a different color.

【HOUDIN】
M’s Desoli Thermal Crew

PRICE : ¥33,000 (tax included)
COLOR : College Grey
SIZE : XS, S, M, L, XL
MATERIAL : Merino Wool 100% (Solid Gridmerino™)

Made with 100% New Zealand superfine merino wool

Solid Gridmerino™ made of 100% superfine merino wool

The fabric used, Solid Gridmerino™, is made of 100% 17.6μm New Zealand superfine merino wool. Its grid structure creates an air layer that balances heat retention and breathability, while also providing excellent moisture permeability and quick-drying capabilities.

Pure merino wool fabric that hasn’t been blended with synthetics exhibits its inherent properties more clearly than synthetic-blend products. It maintains its warmth even when wet, and fully utilizes its natural temperature-regulating function and natural antibacterial and odor-resistant effects. Furthermore, because it is renewable and biodegradable, it is a fully circular fabric that hasn't been treated or blended with synthetics, allowing it to be recycled or composted once worn out.

This is a base layer that performs in all situations, from activities in cold conditions—such as cycling, hiking, skiing, and snowboarding—to daily life. Since it has more thickness than many other base layers, it can also be worn as a mid-layer.

That is the Desoli Thermal Crew. It’s only natural that you’d want to wear it every day, and I’m sure you can now understand how it’s possible to wear it every day without even washing it.

On the flip side—perhaps that’s the wrong way to put it, as it’s not something I want to wear every day, but rather something that shines when it counts—is the Alpha Vest from Yamatomichi. If we’re comparing it to sweets, maybe it’s like a fancy cake on a day off? Haha.

As for when it "counts," during this time of year, it’s mostly when I’m running. Once it gets a little warmer, it works great for cycling and hiking when layered over a merino wool cut-and-sew, but in the winter, it’s strictly for running.

It has an incredibly simple construction, with Polartec Alpha Direct on the front and Shadow Rip™ on the back. You might wonder if something this thin could actually be useful, but let me tell you—it is extremely useful.

The Polartec Alpha Direct on the front keeps the body warm while providing exceptional moisture permeability, and the Shadow Rip™ on the back is a highly breathable and durable material.

The reason I use this often when running is that it is moderately warm and highly breathable. When the intensity of the workout reaches a certain level, the body inevitably gets hot, but I don't have the courage to start running in light clothing. Yet, if I start running in warm gear, I end up getting too hot and uncomfortable. That’s why this Alpha Vest, being moderately warm and highly breathable, is an essential item.

【Yamatomichi】
Alpha Vest

PRICE : ¥9,500 (tax included)
COLOR : Black
SIZE : S, M, L, XL
MATERIAL Front : Polartec Alpha Direct (100% Polyester) 136g/m²
MATERIAL Back : Shadow Rip™ (100% Polyester) 56g/m²
C0 DWR

Ultra-lightweight, minimal active insulation

Heat retention only on the front

Polartec Alpha Direct, which offers excellent heat retention and breathability, is placed on the front, while the back and shoulders use the ultra-thin, highly breathable Shadow Rip. Alpha Direct is intentionally omitted from the back because the back and shoulders get hot from carrying a backpack while active, and you don’t feel as cold there while sleeping as it remains in close contact with a sleeping mat.

Lightweight Shadow Rip with excellent strength and abrasion resistance

In the harsh mountain environment—with rapidly changing weather, drastic temperature swings, sudden gusts, and intense sunlight—it’s necessary to achieve a high level of balance between the opposing properties of breathability and windproofing. Teijin Frontier's Shadow Rip is a material that satisfies these conditions while combining both lightness and strength.

By the way, my running style lately in these sub-10-degree temperatures is HOUDINI’s Desoli Thermal Crew, this Yamatomichi Alpha Vest, and a PATAGONIA M’s Houdini Stash 1/2 Zip P/O layered on top.

When running for just under 10km, sweat pours out in the latter half when I pick up the pace, so I unzip the jacket to let the cold air flow in while I run. I walk or run slowly until I get home, so the heat dies down significantly, but the wet Desoli Thermal Crew causes no discomfort. Thanks to the benefits of the Alpha Vest, I don't get a chill from the sweat, and furthermore, I can get home and into the shower without my midsection getting cold.

Usage varies from person to person, but I personally don’t use the Alpha Vest for cycling or hiking in the current cold weather. In those cases, I tend to reach for something that is more straightforwardly warm. Once the climate gets a bit warmer, I will use it more often—layering it over a thin merino long-sleeve with a wind jacket on top, or wearing it over a short-sleeve shirt.

Even if this Alpha Vest can’t take the lead role, it has firmly secured its position as a great supporting actor, able to fill in those small, minor gaps.

The HOUDINI Desoli Thermal Crew and the Yamatomichi Alpha Vest—they differ completely in function and the situations in which they are used, but both are essential items I simply cannot live without.

It’s my daily wish that many people come to understand them and share in their greatness.

Items mentioned in this article