This blog post introduces products that we don’t carry here at Circles, but it’s a topic I personally get asked about quite often at the shop. I thought I’d go ahead and write about it in the hope that it might be helpful to someone, somewhere in the world. This is an article for those who love cycling and are thinking, "I want a camera."
The happy relationship between bicycles and cameras
I’ve said it everywhere, but bicycles and cameras go great together.
The scenery you see from the height of a saddle at cycling speed looks different than when you’re walking, and you notice things you’d miss if you were in a car. It’s easier to make little detours than in a car, and if you think, "Oh, that’s nice," it’s easy to stop and take a picture.
And, I can say this with quite a bit of certainty: people who love bicycles often love cameras, too.
In fact, no matter where I go, I meet people who are really into cameras, and even at bicycle shows (like MADE), conversations often end up being entirely about cameras.
The well-known cycling media site The Radavist even has a dedicated section for this kind of hobby,
https://cms.theradavist.com/search/Obscura
The existence of an article series called “Obscura” confirms this affinity.
I suspect the part of the brain that finds joy in cameras and bicycles might be the same (?).
In all seriousness, these types of people often use digital cameras, but they frequently prefer fully manual mechanical cameras. A camera that works solely through gear mechanisms without electricity is truly "bicycle-like," and the simple yet profound system of determining exposure by balancing aperture, shutter speed, and ISO is also somewhat bicycle-like (I think those who get it, get it).
Also, a bicycle is a relatively expensive piece of equipment. So, for anyone who has bought a proper sports bike, most cameras (unless they’re high-end) are cheaper than a bike. Perhaps that’s why we’ve built up the mental resilience to spend money on expensive gear.
Besides, when you ride a bike, the purpose is either to go see the scenery or to communicate with like-minded friends.
Capturing memories of that dialogue with the scenery or sessions with friends in photographs is a wonderful thing.
It makes your trips and rides even more memorable, and by looking back at them or sharing them with friends, you can feel like you’re on that trip all over again.
There’s so much more I could say, but for now, I want to say loud and clear: "Cameras are great."
Cameras are great.
What is an ideal camera for riding?
Now, let’s get to the main point. What kind of camera is ideal for a ride? Before I present my recommended cameras, I’d like to consider the criteria.
1. Compact and easy to carry
Unless you have specific requirements, taking something too heavy on a ride is inconvenient in many ways. (However, some purists believe that cameras should be big and heavy.)
2. Capable of high-quality shots
For average quality, a smartphone is enough. But once you’ve bought a camera, you want a certain level of quality. You want pictures you’ll want to look back at. Being able to take amazing photos can sometimes even be the reason to go for a bike ride.
3. Pride of ownership
This is actually a surprisingly important factor for cyclists. Since you all ride bikes you're particular about, your threshold for the satisfaction of owning something is likely higher than people who have never bought a bike. So, a certain level of pride of ownership is an important requirement.
4. Some level of weather resistance
I wrote "waterproof," but there aren't actually many waterproof cameras. There are, however, dust- and splash-resistant cameras that can handle a certain amount of moisture or debris. You can’t control the weather while riding, so unless you're the type who says, "I won't ride on rainy days or when it looks like it might rain," this is a fairly important factor.
5. Looks good
This relates to pride of ownership, but it’s also very important. If it looks good, you’ll want to carry it with you, and consequently, you’ll use it for a long time. Falling in love with the look of a piece of gear is a perfectly valid starting point.
6. Available as new
・Honestly, used gear is fine, but in this entry, I’m going to limit myself to cameras that can be purchased new. Used equipment is a deep rabbit hole, so I'll save that for another time.
・Also, buying new means you get a manufacturer's warranty. Compared to other photographic activities, using a camera while riding has a higher risk of damage, so I recommend buying new to get that warranty, or buying from a specialty shop that offers a warranty on used gear. It’s good to be aware of the risks if you're buying on platforms like Mercari.
・Also, this kind of thing has saved me before.
While everyone has their own specific preferences, I’ll introduce some recommended cameras based on these criteria.
Specs needed for a "ride camera"
When you're motivated to buy a camera and look up articles or search for "best digital camera" on the web, you won't find many results for selecting a camera specifically for cyclists.
Also, looking at web articles, there are many technical terms like "full-frame," "APS-C," or "XX megapixels!" that can be confusing at first, but for the specs you need on a ride, the following are more than sufficient (please understand that this is just a personal opinion and other views exist).
1. The sensor size doesn't really matter
If you’re really particular, you might want "full-frame," but I don’t think your first camera needs to be. Furthermore, cameras with smaller sensors are smaller in body size, so in that respect, they might be superior to full-frame cameras as a "ride camera."
2. 20 megapixels is enough
Unless you’re a pro who wants to print and exhibit at A2 size or larger, 20–24 megapixels is plenty. Besides, having more megapixels doesn't necessarily mean you’ll take better photos.
3. AF performance from 10 years ago is fine
High resolution and high-performance AF are selling points for Japanese camera manufacturers, but you don’t need high-speed AF for shooting Formula 1 or circuit racing while cycling, and I don't think non-racer cyclists are going that fast, so decent AF performance is perfectly enough.
4. Video functionality
Cameras have different strengths and weaknesses when it comes to video versus still photos. Video has different requirements, so here I will focus on recommendations for still photography.
5. Having a viewfinder
This is a personal opinion, but shooting while looking through a viewfinder is super important for the photography experience. The world you cut out by looking through a viewfinder is truly beautiful. Some of the cameras I’m introducing don’t have viewfinders, but those with them are recommended. (Just don't look through the viewfinder while riding—that causes accidents!)
Due to higher resolution, faster AF, video capabilities, and other added functions, cameras tend to get larger with each new model, but I’ve introduced cameras that meet the above conditions below. (The images below are sourced from official websites.)
Recommendation 1: FUJIFILM X-E5
The model that cemented FUJIFILM's high-end appeal. Small, lightweight, and comes with a viewfinder. The AF performance is sufficient. The curves on the machined aluminum top plate are beautiful. Actually, it’s machined with such intricate curves that it’s also very ergonomic. A prime example of design serving function.
In fact, many Circles staff members are fans of the X-E series (the X-E3 is especially popular).
However, it’s not dust- or splash-resistant, so you’ll need to be a bit careful on rainy days. In conditions with stable weather, I personally think its size and feel make it ideal as a ride camera.
Manufacturer price: 246,400 JPY
Recommendation 2: FUJIFILM X-T5
Shige-chan at Circles uses the X-T series, and it's also used for taking bike portraits at Circles. (By the way, Shige uses the X-T2.)
Personally, this is my top choice for a ride camera.
Relatively small, lightweight, high-performance AF, comes with a viewfinder, and (depending on the lens combination) is dust- and splash-resistant. Its utility is outstanding.
I also bought the X-T5 this winter, and the deciding factor was this:
The fact that you can control everything regarding exposure on the top plate. For someone like me who really wants to shoot in manual exposure, being able to set the exposure before even turning the power on is fantastic. It’s great that you can shoot with the same feeling as using a film camera.
Before getting used to a camera, shooting in full auto is enough, but once you start getting particular, you'll really appreciate this dial layout (and I'm sure many cyclists are the type to dive deep into that sort of thing...)
Manufacturer price: 298,100 JPY
I recommend lenses marked "WR," as they provide dust and splash resistance when used with the X-T5.
For riding, these might be good choices:
XF16mmF2.8 R WR
XF23mmF2 R WR
XF35mmF2 R WR
For bike portraits, the XF56mmF1.2 R WR is the best choice, though it's a bit pricey!
Recommendation 3: RICOH GR III or GR IV
The RICOH GR is the undisputed king of point-and-shoot cameras. At Circles, Eri-twin and Monja use them.
Small size is great, it's lightweight, and while not dust/splash resistant, it's robust and takes great photos. It makes you realize that small is right.
It’s a fantastic camera, but if I had to find one fault, it’s the lack of a viewfinder. You can add one as an accessory, but it would be great to have a built-in one like in the film camera era...!
Also, new units are basically only available through lottery sales, which might be the biggest hurdle (as of December 2025).
Manufacturer price: from about 130,000 JPY
Recommendation 4: OM SYSTEM OM-5 Mark II
The OM-5 Mark II has a smaller "Micro Four Thirds" sensor, which keeps the body small and makes it easy to handle. Combined with lenses, you can build a very compact system. I used an older model, and even with a zoom lens, it’s small, so it’s comfortable to carry. It’s surprising that I don't see more people around me with this camera.
It’s dust- and splash-resistant, so that’s another plus.
Manufacturer price: 173,800 JPY
Recommendation 5: NIKON Zfc
If you’re really particular, the full-frame Zf is great, but I think the APS-C sensor Zfc is plenty. Small and lightweight. And, it has a classic look.
The dial operation on the top plate is also great. Honestly, I love Nikon, and I was torn between this and the FUJIFILM X-T5, but I chose FUJIFILM for the weather resistance.
The classic look gives it a high sense of ownership, and it goes perfectly with steel-framed bikes. Chanmai at Circles uses this one.
Manufacturer price: 129,800 JPY
Recommendation 6: SONY α7C
Full-frame sensor, AF speed, image quality, and compact body size. High standard in every respect.
When people ask me, "I want a good camera," this is the first one I recommend. Because it’s small, it works well for riding. The Sony E-mount has a huge variety of lenses, and there are many mount adapters, so you can even use older lenses from other companies, making the possibilities for enjoyment with the α series infinite.
Manufacturer price: 229,900 JPY
Recommendation 7: SONY RX100VII
Don’t underestimate the RX100 series as just a "compact digital camera." Even if it’s not the latest VII model, it works perfectly well, and what I think is especially good is this:
From the 3rd generation onward, the RX100 series has a pop-up viewfinder that appears at the touch of a button. That action, and the feature itself, are great.
Lightweight, super compact, and comes with a viewfinder. This is also ideal as a ride camera. If I had the budget, I’d love to own one myself...! (Personally, I like it even more than the GR!)
Manufacturer price: 209,000 JPY
Summary
Rather than entry-level models, I chose cameras that you can use for a long time, both in terms of function and satisfaction.
I wanted to list about ten, but it started to get a bit too obsessive, and the price of the cameras would keep going up, so I’ll leave it at this.
This time, I focused specifically on choosing a camera for rides and for people who love to ride.
I listed the new prices intentionally, but in reality, used gear with a warranty is also perfectly fine.
Actually, there are many theories when it comes to choosing a camera, and it’s best to listen to what a lot of different people have to say, so I hope this serves as a good reference for you!
