Across from the Nachi-Katsuura fishing port sits "Hotel Urashima," a tourist hotel that occupies an entire peninsula. True to its name, you arrive at the hotel by riding a turtle-shaped boat reminiscent of the Urashima Taro folktale.
The scene at this Arcade event left a lingering, mysterious sensation, as if the whole experience had been a dream of the Dragon Palace. A shopping arcade sprang up in an instant at a fishing port usually lined with tuna. Hand-picked vendors gathered from all over Japan and across Wakayama prefecture, and a massive crowd visited to savor the delicious food and browse the various stalls. Every booth was full of passion and genuinely committed to interaction; that collective energy created the atmosphere of the venue. And then, by the early morning of the day after the event, it had returned to the usual scenery of tuna being lined up at the port.
BIKE to Arcade
Circles organized the "BIKE to Arcade" initiative, which included a ride tour and a bicycle cloak service. Riding a bike is a way to physically understand a landscape. First and foremost, I wanted to ride it.
On a beautifully clear Saturday, we held a ride tour where we used a cycle train to travel to Shingu, then returned to the venue by connecting backroads and the Kumano Kodo trail. Although many of the participants were customers of the local bike shop Wheel Action, they were very pleased, noting that even in places they usually ride, the experience is completely different depending on when you ride, who you ride with, and what your purpose is.
The second day was rainy. While the covered outdoor market remained a huge success, we understandably had to cancel the ride. I had originally planned to start in Kushimoto and explore a bit around the Kozagawa River. The reason being, I was inspired by the "Kumano/Koza Kaido" volume (Vol. 8) of Ryotaro Shiba's "Kaido wo Yuku" (Walking the Highways) series.
When Ryotaro Shiba traveled along the Kozagawa River, he recalled the "Wakashu-gumi" (youth groups) that had remained in this region until recently. A Wakashu-gumi was an ancient Japanese social system where young people in rural villages formed horizontal bonds, transcending differences in status or wealth, to handle heavy labor like festivals and disaster relief, and to facilitate marriages and child-rearing through customs like yobai (night visiting).
Who builds a city?
"Let's build an ideal city where the next generation wants to live" is the concept behind Arcade.
Shopping streets with shuttered storefronts are often seen as a symbol of regional decline, but a market that dares to use the name "Arcade" to generate a collection of attractive specialty shops feels like a modern version of a festival run by "Wakashu" (youth) who aren't bound by the customs of the older generation.
A market official I spoke with during the test ride was also incredibly supportive, saying, "It’s amazing and makes me so happy to see young people doing new things like this and bringing so many people to the area." It was great to see such understanding and cooperation. Perhaps the Kinan region is well-suited for doing new things because the social hierarchy is less rigid—to the point that the dialect doesn't even have formal honorifics.
The "Arcade" market event, which moves every three years, will be held again in Nachi-Katsuura next year. While access is difficult, there you will find a Shangri-La and the scenery of a new kind of regional town. Let's all go again. By bike.
Talks on Arcade RADIO episode.7
In relation to Arcade, there is a podcast series called "Arcade RADIO" where key figures share their stories. I also sat down with Mr. Nishimura, the owner of Wheel Action, to talk about the theme of "Bicycles and Cities." I apologize for our "bicycle fundamentalist" stance that "bicycles solve everything," but I hope you will give it a listen. Also, the stories from other guests are full of insightful content regarding the joys and survival of local regions, so please check those out as well.