Last Thursday was the perfect day for a bike ride. The daytime temperature climbed to 14 degrees, and the sky was completely clear.
It would be a waste not to go out and play on a day like this.
This day’s tour was to cycle the ancient roads of Nara. Our guide was Jin-san, who is like our very own Master Yoda. I’ve been dying to go on a ride with him for the past five or six years, but our schedules never aligned and we kept missing the chance. He’s a veteran with 45 years of cycling experience who has thoroughly explored various regions, based out of Matsusaka in Mie.
It had been about 10 years since I last visited Nara myself? This was my first time visiting by bike.
This time, we traveled by train with our bikes (rinko). It’s much easier than driving, and there’s something nice about watching the rural scenery go by from a one-man train. Anyone can do it if they follow the proper etiquette for transporting bikes on trains, and I highly recommend it. Everyone was primarily on mountain bikes. That doesn't mean we were just on trails the whole time; it was a mix of on-road and off-road. It was an experience of connecting Nara’s ancient roads—some parts were pleasant single tracks, while others took us through residential areas, past shrines, and through Todai-ji Temple. The word all-terrain was absolutely perfect for it.
We were in no rush to get anywhere, and there was no racing. If we were tired, we took a break, and good food was a must. If there was a minor bike malfunction, we’d call it a break and help each other out. We’d stop at the various unmanned roadside stands to buy vegetables as souvenirs—it was a truly laid-back ride.
We’d pass through residential areas, then suddenly find ourselves on a trail and glide along comfortably. Moving through the bamboo forest, the light filtering through was truly beautiful.
As we followed the ancient roads, we saw numerous stone Buddha statues along the way.
We also stopped to pray at Isonokami-jingu Shrine, said to be the oldest shrine in Japan. It’s a power spot even Prince Shotoku gave his seal of approval. With about 30 chickens running loose on the grounds, it felt like a very auspicious place for the owner of EarlyBirds. I feel like I definitely secured some blessings there.
For lunch, we had "Nishin soba" (herring soba) at a shop recommended by Jin-san. It was inexpensive, and the wild mountain vegetables gathered nearby were exceptional. Being able to find such places in the countryside is all part of the skill, I think—a sense for picking out good spots honed through many rides.
This ride was a really fascinating route that allowed us to feel the history and culture of Japan, something only possible in the ancient capital of Nara. Even though it was just a one-day ride, I truly felt the joy of spending years visiting a place, constantly tweaking the route, and creating a riding path all our own.
Next time, I want Jin-san to show us around his home base of Matsusaka. I’m already looking forward to it.
On this day, we had various mishaps—a broken brake, a flat tire, a forgotten bottle, a torn gear bag—but we helped each other out, laughed, and kept going. It was a day that truly reminded me of the real thrill of riding with friends.
So, where are we going on our next day off?
Keita from EarlyBirds