[RAL] Merino Wool L/S Tee

2023/9/21 木村まさし

Under the name "RAL," we plan and create items that we think would be absolutely perfect to have when riding a bike, but that you just can't seem to find anywhere else.

This time, we’ve come up with a product that perfectly realizes those delusions.

I’ve always thought, “I really want a great merino T-shirt.”

Merino wool T-shirts are made of a functional material and are excellent, but many of them have a sporty (or mountaineering) design and color. Personally (since I have a bit of guilt about not being fully committed to hiking culture), they can be hard to get into. Also, since most of these products are positioned as base layers, the silhouette feels like underwear, making it hard to wear one on its own... so I could never quite find "my best" one.

Also, one thing that makes cycling different from hiking is how "your activity level rises instantly, and then you cool down rapidly."

Especially when climbing, your heart rate goes up and you’re soaked in sweat, but then you get freezing cold on the descent.

I spent a lot of time while riding thinking about whether I could make something that solves these issues while still being comfortable to wear (my worldly desires).

A silhouette you can wear on its own
Colors you can wear for casual use or on a ride
Ribbed cuffs (I wanted to be most particular about these)
The comfortable feel of wool
But with a decent amount of quick-drying performance

These were the development points for this project.

Including the planning phase, it took over a year to complete this product. San-Ace, a factory in Gifu, was the one that humored this clueless bike shop owner and worked with me to make it. It’s a product that finally came to life after I exchanged opinions—arguing over this and that—with my contact there, Hiraiwa-kun (who I’m happy to say has recently started riding a bike).

I feel like I’ve managed to create "my best" for now, but this is a product I would absolutely recommend to anyone whose life revolves around bikes.

Designed for everyday wear

As I will detail later, I’m sure those of you who read the Circles articles already know the benefits of merino wool.

It’s available from many brands, and personally, I feel that products specialized for performance or those focused on gimmicks have already been done to death. Many of them just have a slightly too sporty finish for our everyday vibe.

I thought it would be awesome if a merino T-shirt could be worn with the same vibe as a normal long-sleeve tee, so we created a silhouette that looks great on its own or layered with your regular clothes!

My favorite boxy silhouette. The length is a bit shorter.

In the coming season, you can wear it as a single layer.

It also layers nicely under a shirt.

In winter or deep winter, under a voluminous down jacket,

Or layered under a knit sweater, it should work great. It feels a bit 90s. (Oh, and a short-length sweatshirt over it might look cool, too.)

Cuffs really should have ribs, don't you think?

The neck also has a standard ribbed trim. This is standard and the best.

To make sure they match a variety of outfits, we’ve started the first lot with just basic colors. But we chose these colors because they’re the only three we’d ever want to wear anyway. (From the left: Charcoal, Navy, Olive Drab)

For your rides

Of course, the primary situation for this product is "riding."

To solve the temperature regulation issue during climbs and descents as much as possible, we looked into various fabrics and threads.

Here are the features of merino wool.

Merino wool is the wool from the Merino sheep breed and is one of the highest-grade materials among all wool. Merino wool has excellent moisture-wicking, thermal insulation, and anti-bacterial/odor-resistant properties.

The features of merino wool are as follows:

Because it has high moisture-wicking properties, it absorbs moisture from your skin and releases it to the outside air, keeping you feeling cool.

The fibers are fine, supple, and gentle to wear.

It has high thermal insulation, protecting you from cold outside air.

Because the surface of the fiber repels water, it is resistant to getting chilled by sweat.

It has properties that prevent bacteria from adhering, making it hard for odors to develop.

It has a strong ability to absorb and neutralize unpleasant odors.

It is resistant to dirt, so you can wear it for days without washing.

It has excellent heat insulation, meaning it keeps you cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Because of its functionality, merino wool is popular among outdoor enthusiasts and has become an essential item, especially for outdoor leisure in the fall and winter.
I used Google's AI.

Yup. This didn't differ from what I already knew, so I copy-pasted it (a bit lazy).

I love the feel of merino wool, but I wish it had a bit more quick-drying performance. And it would be great if the durability was improved, too.

Asking for everything. Asking for the world.

How do we do this? After much deliberation (this was the longest part), we came to the conclusion that using a blend of wool and COOLMAX® thread would be best.

As many of you know, what is COOLMAX®? When I asked the AI...

COOLMAX is a 100% polyester moisture-wicking, quick-drying fiber developed by the American company DuPont in 1986. This fiber keeps you feeling cool and dry by absorbing sweat and dispersing it quickly.

COOLMAX absorbs moisture and dissipates it through capillary action. The material itself doesn't feel cold; rather, it keeps you feeling cool by immediately absorbing and evaporating moisture (sweat) from your body.

COOLMAX is a registered trademark of fiber handled by LYCRA Company, based in the United States. It is loved by many sports and fashion brands.
I used Google's AI.

Yup. This didn't differ from what I already knew, so I copy-pasted it (again).

Anyway, with that hypothesis that this blend would be good, we decided on a thread composition of 52% wool and 48% polyester (COOLMAX®).

We chose a thread that is resistant to pilling, so the fabric finish looks beautiful.

By mixing in COOLMAX, the durability of the thread itself should be improved, and depending on how it's used, theoretically, it should last longer than 100% wool.

So, I wore the finished sample on a four-day "East Hokkaido Touring" trip I took recently. (I’m sorry for harping on about this trip in my recent posts!)

Test sample review

With the material set and the silhouette finished nicely, I tested it on the East Hokkaido tour last month. I carried out a schedule of wearing it for 3 consecutive days out of the 4-day, 430km trip, washing and air-drying it on the third day, and wearing it all day long.

It was a complete solo trip, so I apologize that I don't have photos of me wearing it, but I’ll explain it in text.

These are just my personal impressions, so they won't necessarily apply to everyone, but I hope they serve as a reference.

Day 1: High 28°C, Low 20°C

Rain to cloudy to downpour (Memanbetsu Airport to Shari Town, about 80km in total)

It was raining when I arrived at the airport, but the rain stopped while I was assembling my bike, allowing for a comfortable ride. It was a road with flat gravel continuing in a straight line. Because of this, my heart rate was stable, and I was able to finish the ride with the long sleeves pushed up.

The temperature was high for wearing long sleeves, so it did get soaked with sweat, but it was still perfectly comfortable.

Day 2: High 31°C, Low 19°C

Cloudy to sunny to super sunny (Shari Town to Lake Mashu to Lake Kussharo, about 140km in total)

It got sunny and the temperature rose, and since it was basically a constant hill climb, I inevitably overheated. I took it off midway.

Perhaps because the humidity was low, it was almost completely dry when I put it back on for the descent. It didn't stick to my skin and moisture wicking was good. It would have been perfect as a short-sleeve.

Day 3: High 27°C, Low 17°C

Sunny to cloudy to light rain to sunny (Lake Kussharo to Kushiro Marsh to Kushiro City, about 120km in total)

It was quite cool between Lake Kussharo and Kushiro Marsh, so it was a perfect long-sleeve day.

I went through cycles of sweating on the climbs and drying out on the descents. I could regulate my temperature with just this one piece. It felt especially good during the light rain when it wasn't enough to get me soaked.

I can really feel its functionality when wearing it as a single layer below 20°C. Though, after wearing it for 3 days straight, it did feel a little gross.

Day 4: High 21°C, Low 15°C

Rain to downpour (I couldn't really ride my bike)

I couldn't leave my accommodation in Kushiro city due to the downpour. I had washed it the previous day. I went out for drinks with some friends from Hokkaido who came to visit. Even though it was cool and humid from the rain, I was able to spend the time dry and comfortable.

Conclusion

Climatologically, it was still too hot to wear long sleeves, but it turned out to be a very good test ride for experiencing the moisture-wicking and dry skin feel.

Because the cuffs are ribbed, it’s easy to push the sleeves up if it gets hot.

The feeling of the material regulating body temperature and the pleasant feel on the skin are better than synthetic fibers, so it’s less draining even when wearing it for a long time.

Also, because the silhouette is like casual wear, you can blend into restaurants naturally during a ride.

I think this is quite important. Especially on a tour, you’re visiting someone else's land, so it’s vital to blend into the area as much as possible without standing out.

Actually, I was riding in the RAL Shorts, so when I entered shops and the conversation turned to "I came from Honshu on a bike," people were surprised because my outfit was so casual.

It’s also quite nice to head down into town and grab dinner just like that.

As I aimed for, for someone with my level of usage, the only downside was that it felt a bit gross if I wore it for more than three days; otherwise, I didn't feel many disadvantages.

However, it’s a casual, loose silhouette, so I’m curious how it would fare in more serious environments. I’ll be testing that out after the release.