"Extend, Power Pole!"
Boing〜〜〜.
That’s the Power Pole Goku carries extending, but when it comes to the bicycle world, this is the one we're talking about.
Shimano Hub Axle
It doesn't extend like a magical pole, but it does demonstrate some surprising capabilities.
Here I have a quick-release hub. I’m planning to use this for a Surly Troll build that I'm setting up as a single-speed bike.
When you use this type of hub on a bicycle with track ends or claw dropouts, the clamping force is often too weak, which can lead to problems like the wheel slipping under the force of pedaling.
In times like that, you’ll find yourself wishing that your quick-release hub was a bolt-on, nutted axle hub instead.
Yes!! This "Power Pole" is exactly what makes that wish come true.
First, prepare an axle that matches the size of your hub.
For Shimano hubs, there are 5 sizes available:
165mm: Shimano Part Number Y22003A10
170mm: Shimano Part Number Y22003A20
180mm: Shimano Part Number Y22003A00
185mm: Shimano Part Number Y22003A30
192mm: Shimano Part Number Y22003A40
In this case, I have prepared a 185mm axle to convert a Shimano Deore (FH-M475) hub, which has an over-locknut dimension of 135mm, into a bolt-on type.
(*Note: The 185mm/Y22003A30 is discontinued and available only while supplies last, so you can use the 190mm instead!)
First, remove the original quick-release axle.
The trick here is to lay out the parts in the order you remove them so you don't lose track of the original sequence.
Once you've removed the old axle, swap it for the nutted-style axle and put everything back together as it was.
Here is another important tip:
For the axle protrusion, you could keep adjusting and tightening by trial and error, but that’s a hassle, so let’s use some simple math.
Axle protrusion amount = (Total axle length - Over-locknut dimension) ÷ 2
You can find the value using this formula.
Applying it to this case:
(185mm - 135mm) ÷ 2 = 25mm
This means the protrusion on one side should be 25mm.
Once you’ve aligned the dimensions and assembled it so there is no play, you're done.
The next step is to install the cassette, and the wheel will be finished. But here is one last important tip:
Most people use a specific lockring tool (TL-LR15) for their cassette, but once you switch to a nutted axle, you won't be able to use that tool anymore.
When that happens, make sure you have a hollow-style (pass-through) cassette lockring tool.
For Shimano, use something like the TL-LR10.
Once you’ve tightened the cassette, it’s finally complete.
Install it on your bike, and enjoy a stress-free ride with a wheel that is far less likely to slip.
This is a hub axle that allows you to convert a Shimano quick-release rear hub into a track-nut (bolt-on) style.
It prevents issues such as the wheel slipping due to pedaling force, which can occur when using a quick-release hub on a bike with track ends or claw dropouts.